Musée de l’Orangerie Shows ‘I Macchiaioli’: Mid-19th C. Italian Modernist Painters
Years ago, I wandered into the modern wing of the Pitti Palace in Florence (left), and found myself alone in the sumptuous company of beautiful mid-to-late 19th century paintings, rich in pictorial poetry of the Tuscan landscapes and moments of Tuscan life, by the Italian painters, known collectively as the Macchiaioli.
Some scenes were painted horizontally, on small, wide planks of wood or cardboard, capturing the panoramic views of the Tuscan hills hugging the River Arno and its tributaries with hardened peasants tending to their quotidian chores; and others, painted on canvas, depicted scenes from forgotten parts of Florence; or interior activities of dutiful modern ladies of the emerging bourgeoisie; or valiant soldiers sacrificed in the Risorgimento—the three wars for Italian independence and unification from 1848 through 1870. Each, in turn, was full of lush color, tonal contrasts and spatial placements, executed in short fiery strokes that, from a distance, evoked the lyricism of the Tuscany. Yet as a whole they were devoid of treacly romanticism, but rich in loving realism. artes fine arts magazine
But it was the light, the supreme pervasive Tuscan sun, the myriad effects of it and the sublime truth of nature an
d humanity that these Italian painters caught and appropriated in their compositions. They achieved this by sketching and painting all’aperto (outdoors), some fifteen or twenty years before the French impressionists painted en plein air. Yet, little is known or appreciated about Macchiaioli outside of Italy.
Right: Giovanni Fattori, La Rotonda di Palmieri (1866)
So it was with anticipation that, on a drizzly morning of May, in Paris, I quickly walked toward the Tuileries and the Musée de l’Orangerie to see the exhibition, Les Macchiaioli 1855-1874: Des Impressionistes Italiens? Once I got there, it was like seeing old, unforgotten friends.
There were about sixty selected works, in all, by at least fourteen artists identified with the Macchiaioli. Many were from the Pitti Palace and private collections. The works shown illustrate the emotional and historical arc of this important artistic movement and the lives of these painters that were intricately woven with the tumultuous period of the Risorgimento.
The Macchiaioli artists
rebelled against the established art academy stultifying conventions of ‘finished paintings’ and thematic restrictions to biblical and historical or courtly subjects. They were the descendants of Tintoretto, Caravaggio, Velasquez, and Spagnolotto (Ribera), innovating the chiaroscuro method of enriching tonal expressions and spatial depth relations in a modern context. They were true modernists, enthusiastic for the new medium of photography, with its pronounced light and shadow, and for Japanese prints and paintings and the adoption of sharper and defining white tone.
Left: Italian Impressionist Macchiaioli artists gathered for a playful photo, circa 1865.
The art term macchia (literally, patches or spots) refers to stains of colors in myriad tonal shades of light and shadow done in quick and broad impressionistic strokes of the subject matter, without preliminary drawing, as it appears to the artist’s eye. Their macchia technique was “nothing but violent chiaroscuro” wrote Telemaco Signorini (b. Florence 1835 – d. Florence 1901), one of the most important Macchiaioli, in response to a derisive comment on the name, which the artists adopted with pride. Giorgione, according to Giorgio Vasari, had already us
ed macchia in the 1400’s to quickly paint the tonal impressions of a subject matter. As art students in Italy, they were trained in the mezzo-macchia, which is a study of objects in just two tones that enabled the artist to see broad tonal contrasts and effect of light. They did small color sketches in oil (bozetti d’invenzioni ad olio) when they painted all’aperto to quickly capture the effect of the light on their subjects, which might be used later for larger compositions or submitted for competitions.
Right: Small format oil sketch illustrating macchia technique. Telemaco Signorini, Via Torta, Venice (1870).
With their individualized interpretation of the macchia language, they painted their beliefs and in realism (il vero). The Macchiaioli mastered and expanded macchia language not only in chiaroscuro of strong tonal colors, but also further developed the spatial perspectives explored in Quattrocento Tuscany of Piero della Francesca (b. Umbria 1415 – d. Sansepolcro 1492). Each artist in the group ardently experimented, searched and formed his personal poetic voice, sung bel canto in paint.
The Macchiai
oli story began in 1848, in Florence, at the famous Caffè Michelangiolo on Via Largo, (now Via Cavour), just around the corner from the Florentine Art Academy. Intellectuals, political exiles, writers and artists frequented the place. It was the center for debates about republican ideals, liberty, art, politics, and their ardent desire for a united Italy to join the modern progressive Europe. There was fierce sentiment for independence from Austrians to the north, the Spanish in Sicily and Naples, the clerical stranglehold in the Papal States, and for a unified Italy. In their prime as young artists, they were immersed in these issues and fervent in their desire for change.
Left: Silvestro Lega, Giuseppe Garibaldi (1870).
The Italian peninsula of 1848 was carved into seven separate, sovereign states, after the defeat of Napoleon in 1815 and the Congress of Vienna. In early 1848, insurrections broke out in Milan, Venice, Rome, Tuscany, Sicily, and members of the Macchiaioli participated as volun
teers, fighting against the Austrians and Spanish, and for a republican Rome. The 1848 conflict ended in defeat for the insurrectionists, the Italian peninsula remained fractured and mired in political maneuverings. It took another two wars to achieve independence and unification, with these artists volunteering again in nationalistic hero, Giuseppe Garibaldi’s later campaigns [1].
Right: Giovanni Boldini, Giuseppe Abbati (wearing patch over right eye, lost in battle), c. 1860; below right, Raffaello Sernesi, Solé (date unknown), an artist who was also a casualty of war.
They were artist-soldiers, fierce patriots and republicans for social reform, who put down their paintbrushes and donned uniforms when Garibaldi or Mazzini issued calls to fight against the occupying Austrians in Lombardy, the Spanish Bourbons in Sicily and Naples, or the Habsburg grand duke in Tuscany. Young artist, Giuseppe Abbati (b. Naples, 1836 – d. Florence, 1868) lost his right eye when he fought with Garibaldi’s One Thousand (I Mille). The talented and most pr
omising Raffaello Sernesi (b. Florence 1838 – d. Bolzano 1866) joined Garibaldi’s volunteers in Lombardi and died of wounds suffered on the battlefield. He was only 26 years of age, and represented the spirit of sacrifice for this young generation of patriots.
A good example of macchia is Giuseppe Abbati’s small, singular study of light and shadow in Cloister of the Church of Santa Croce in Florence (1861-1862) (below left). Two brown columns separate the dark spaces of the opaque interior, and a solitary sitting man—clearly a worker, seen from the back— leans against a column wearing a distinctively-bright azure hat. In the foreground, a cluster of rectangular marble masses are swathed in fierce white and black with textured brushwork and centrally placed as if posing to capture the full effect of the sun. There is no fine finish or details, just tones and color. The tonal contrast between the shadowed interior and the st
ark white-and-black marble is deep, rendering the mood both meditative and tranquil.
The Church of Santa Croce is world renown, housing the funeral monuments of Michelangelo, Galileo, Macchiavelli, Dante and great artworks by Giotto, Donatello and Vasari. It was being renovated in 1860’s to restore Italian heritage after the Florentines, including the Macchiaioli, took up arms and forced the Austrian grand duke to flee on April 27, 1859. It is revealing o
f Abbati’s sympathies with the cause that he chose to paint an unknown toiler and the materials for his labor to rebuild the church—the symbol of new Florence.
Likewise, Odoardo Borrani’s (b. Pisa, 1833 – d. Florence, 1905) The 26th of April, 1859 (1861) (right), depicts a young women sitting at a table by the open window, purposefully sewing the tri-color flag of Italy. The penetrating light is splashed through a garret window, shining on this determined young woman playing her part in the Risorgimento, on the day before the demonstrations in Florence on 27th April, forcing the Austrian grand duke from the city.
Telemarco Signo
rini, the most theoretical and worldly of the bunch, produced the powerful, The Ward of the Madwomen at S. Bonifazio (1865) (left), employing an angular perspective to create a vast spatial depth between the viewer and the dark open door at the far end of a large ward. The anonymous gesturing women gathered at the side tables are portrayed in muted dark-brown tones in sharp contrast to the pale white shades of the walls. The broad illumination entering from the right accentuates the contrast of the brown figures from the empty white walls punctuating the scene with an austere sense of ostracism and abandonment. Edgar Degas (1834 – 1917), the French impressionist, was reported to have seen this Signorini’s work during his sojourn in Florence and was so “fired with enthusiasm” that he adopted the spatiality and tonal shades in his later compositions of ballet dancers in a dance studio.
Silvestro Lega (b. Modigliana, 1826 – d. Florence, 1895) used his stark chiaroscuro in social settings painting bourgeois ladies in fine garbs performing their duties and his observations of social class differences [2]. One example is 
The important, Giovanni Fattori—a Livorno native—believed thoroughly in realism derived from brutal honesty, as he painted from inner feelings inspired by nature. In The Lookouts (The White Wall), 1870-72, the textured strokes of colors muted under the broad white empty wall in a diagonal perspective echoed by the parallel white road a

Far left: Giovanni Fattori, Self-portrait (c. 1854); left: Fattori’s, The Lookouts (The White Wall), 1870-72).
It was reflective of Fattori’s sentiment at the time, when hoped-for social reform and freedom were left wanting after national unification. He was the most prolific of the group, with over 800 known paintings. He became a teacher at the Florentine Art Academy, where he taught painting to young Amedeo Modigliani (1886 – 1920), who was of Sephardic Jewish heritage, and also from Livorno.
In art, as well as politics, the Macchiaioli artists sought modern approaches and debated them at the café. Among the 1848 political exiles who congregated at Caffe Michelangiolo, was the dynamic Domenico Morelli, from Naples. A veteran of the Naples insurrection, he was a history painter, capturing the effects of light—both indoors and out—in deep chiaroscuro and tonal colorings. His painting had a flourish consistent with the Neapolitan landscape artists of the Posillipo school of the southern bravura.
Another influential artist of the group was Nino (Giovanni) Costa (b. Rome 1826 – d. Marina di Pisa 1903), 
Then there was the greatest, tireless champion of the Macchiaioli, Diego Martelli (b. Florence 1839 – d. Florence
Left: Edgar Degas, Diego Martelli (1879).
When still young, Diego Martelli inherited a vast estate at Castiglioncello south of Livorno, on the Tuscan coast. He opened his home for Macchiaioli artists, who would spend summer months there, painting with deep affection the Tuscan countryside: the realities of hard peasant life; its animals; and the effects of sun on natural setting, all-the-while developing their individual expressions. Their expressive use of white pigment in strident shades and texture—so vivi
Caffe Michelangiolo closed in 1866. Most of the artist went separate ways, although many returned to Florence.
Vito D’Ancona (b. P
A much younger Giovanni Boldini (b. Ferrare 1842 – d. Paris 
Right: Giovanni Boldini, Giuseppe Verdi (1886).
I left the museum with renewed appreciation for the Macchiaioli, true great artists they were, who heralded modernism in Italy. They were of the generation that fought and forged an independent Italy of less than 200 years, whose unity is still tested. They made history using their painterly poetry to reflect on the times of their lives. They painted honestly from their inner feelings and were true to their beliefs—disillusioned in the end perhaps, but they never sold out.
By Linda Y. Peng, Contributing Writer
Author’s notes:
[1] The pu
[2] Keen depiction by Lega and other Macchiaioli, of men and women’s garments, décor and interior scenes were so detailed, that the Italian film director Luchino Visconti was said to have studied their paintings for wardrobe and scenographic accuracy in his films, Senso and The Leopard, both films set in the Risorgimento.
[3] The acronym,VERDI, served as a public rallying cry, “Vittorio Emanuele, Re D’Italia,” for Victor Emmanuel II, of Italy (1820–1878), ear-marked to become first emperor after Italian unification. The appropriation of Verdi’s name honored the composer, who was, himself, an ardent supporter of the cause.
July 23, 2013 @ 11:15 am
Hi Linda;
Thank you very much for sending this article. I really appreciated. We were in Paris in May and we went to Orangerie. We could have met you there. I really enjoyed your article. Thank you. Dong & Ellen
July 23, 2013 @ 4:48 pm
Congratulations, Linda, on a marvelous, fascinating article and your continued career as critic and writer.
Best regards, John
July 24, 2013 @ 2:44 pm
Thank you for the wonderful article. These are a set of artists that were previously unknown to me. I will now be looking for their unique style as I travel through museums.
Congratulations on this piece,
Linda Lee
July 25, 2013 @ 3:30 am
Dear Linda, thanks for sharing your fascinating article with me. I have translated it to mom and we both enjoyed reading it! By the way, say hi to EMI from us! Best wishes Marina
July 25, 2013 @ 9:00 am
Linda: I really enjoyed the article. You made the art come alive to me. Keep writing!
August 17, 2013 @ 6:37 am
This was really interesting and a work of art in itself.
Congratulations!
August 29, 2013 @ 7:18 pm
A fantastic and very interesting article. I love the work and ideals of the Macchiaioli but as they are so little known outside of Italy, it is very difficult to find any information about them. You have now remedied this – thank you!
March 3, 2014 @ 4:05 am
Thank you for a wonderful and informative article . I grew up seeing an old Italian painting in my Grandmothers house and always loved looking at it during those long family visits . The artist is Vito D’ Ancona and I was very fortunate to inherit it many years later when my father passed away . I have manged to get some information on the Macchiaioli but your article certainly brought them to life , Many thanks .
October 24, 2014 @ 10:35 pm
My mother was a Fattori. We are researching her family to find a connection to Giovanni Fattori, macchioli Italian artist from Livorno, Italia. My mom and family
are from Udine, Italia.
February 18, 2015 @ 3:27 pm
I got to know the Italian collectively known as the Macchiaioli painters, through its text, very well structured. Thank you, Linda. Iolanda Silva